![The Negative](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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The Negative
United States
Приєднався 15 сер 2013
All things analog photography & cinematography related.
Відео
Fuji Eterna 500T. (The other 500T)
Переглядів 728Місяць тому
I bought more of the film than I could ever shoot by myself so if you’d like to buy a roll, here’s the link to my eBay store: www.ebay.com/itm/176438931351?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7XcDKccpTX6&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=7XcDKccpTX6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Kirk White’s Big Time Wrestling Bumper
Переглядів 165Місяць тому
Kirk White’s Big Time Wrestling Bumper
“Intermission” Pro Wrestling Zine Review
Переглядів 2337 місяців тому
“Intermission” Pro Wrestling Zine Review
Ilford PanF (35mm) First Impressions/Review
Переглядів 2,9 тис.Рік тому
Ilford PanF (35mm) First Impressions/Review
Visiting the American Graffiti Car Musuem in Modesto
Переглядів 4572 роки тому
Visiting the American Graffiti Car Musuem in Modesto
I think this film is really great, better than Kodak's 500T variety from what I've seen. Even at -1 exposure I think this film looks good. It's a grungier tone but if that's a look you're looking for it def works. At basic exposure it's perfect.
Did you do anything in particular for color correction from Tungsten balance? Or were all your test shots done under 3200k lighting?
No those are the just the raw scans. No color correction applied. Shot in daylight.
@@TheNegative Wow. nice color balance for tungsten film spec.
Great color contrast. Sad it’s gone now. Except for the few roles you have now.
Post a link to where your going to sell this film.
I used HC110 with Ilford PF4 (before it was +), in both 6x8 and sheet film 4x5 formats, for 10 years or so, and found that you can fairly easily get your bright whites to sing (zones 7-9), and the shadow detail nicely defined, however the midtones (especially lower around zone 4) really lack. Always. The gradations kind of lump together and there is absolutely no edge effect. I see this all the time when I view other people's work, also. Rodinal I never tried. I finally graduated to 8x10 format, and started to use pyrogallic acid type developers (Rollo, PMK, ABC), and all of them gave me far more profound results than HC110--across all gradations. I can't report anything on sharpness and grain with either HC110 or pyro, because I never enlarged anything beyond 8x10, and always used larger type negatives. And, now all I do is contact print. So grain and sharpness have never been a concern. Great video, with lots of information! Thank-you kindly for your research on this matter.
Where do you get it developed?
@@ragtimejohn I send mine to the Film Photography Project. You can probably send it to other labs that do 16mm film since it’s 16mm gauge.
The problem I have with this method is that no matter how carefully I put this in the changing bag to complete the reel, it completely falls off. I’m then stuck to try to try to load it in complete darkness. This is easily the most frustrating part of trying to develop my own film.
Hm… maybe try holding it in place with your thumb on top or and you’d have to be careful with this one to not expose too much of your film but reel on a bit more film so it holds better. If it falls off that probably means you can fit a bit more film onto the reel so it grabs on. Hope this helps!
@@TheNegative I gave this a shot this weekend! I did end up overexposing half of my first photo on the roll, but there are WAY fewer fingerprints and crescent marks than before. ty!
@@britneyw873 awesome! Yeah, might have to find a happy medium for length of film to reel on initially so you don’t expose the frames but I’m glad it helped!
very helpful introduction for a complete noob. Do the film plate holders fit a standard 4x5 camera back-like on your graflex camera, or is some modification required? Thanks
Yes the plate holders will fit any 4x5 (or 8x10 if you buy that size holder) camera. Thanks for watching!
My favorite video so far 😊
@@miriamraygoza5355 thanks for playing them 🌹
@@TheNegative haría cualquier cosa por ti 🫶🏽
@@miriamraygoza5355 gracias amorcita.
@@TheNegative por nada mi werito 🫶🏽
It's interesting how subjective all this is, in every photo I preferred the darker underexposed look. That's what I'm going for so now I'm sold on this Arista film.
It’s repackaged Kodak lol
Thankfully, not this time 😂
Like colors! Sad that I won't have chance to try
Technically you can still try it! I added a bunch of rolls to my eBay store if you’re interested in trying it.
@@TheNegative 🤔 You know I personally think, that it will be more expensive and sending to Ukraine something, that you wouldn’t do. But with my friend in Germany I could try.
Did you scan at home or did Midwest do the Cintel scan? Thanks for the vid, looks like you scored!
@@moot6794 I just had them do Dev Only since I wasn’t sure what I bought and then I scanned at home. Yeah, I like the stock!
Nice video. Well done.
@@kirkleadbetter1093 thanks for watching!!
Surprisingly nice results for 10 years old. I think you are absolutely right on your comments concerning retention of remjet effecting color saturation. The reason Cinestill and others rate Vision 3 500T at 800 is the false sense of "speed" resulting from light flare reflecting though the film at exposure when not absorbed by the remjet coating. That flare desaturates the image colors.
Love the colors. It’s different.
I usually use HC-110 then started to do stand development using rodinal because the results are great for enlarging. I might save my self some time and do a 1:25 dilution for a little bit to see how I like those results.
B and W is classic, I find colour boring. I dream in B and W and photograph seeing everything in B and W. It will never be boring nor; will film ever die. My mentor compared me to Sally as he taught her, she is beyond comparison, she is a thinker and an artist until the last of her days. She continues to inspire. Thank you.
Never realized that the dilution controlled contrast. I always thought the lower dilution it was just to control apparent graininess. Thanks for the video!
How were these scanned? I've had much better results using a plustek 8200i ai.
@@danieljimenez1989 that’s what I used. With silver fast and the normal settings for Negafix. You might be able to get better results playing around with NLP.
I luv that film,it gives a real 60's vibe! I mean Groovy Baby!
Good job!! They look amazing! 🩶
Doesn't look that different in this example. Would be more interesting to test the complete opposite developers to each other. For example D-19 VS POTA on the same film.
Thanks, subscribed. Could you advise whether it makes sense to do 90 minutes stand dev instead of 60 minutes with HP5+? I do 60 minutes with 1 gentle agitation at 30 minutes. Ingeneral I like contrast but details come first.
Love the pictures and great information... now I have to lookup where the next classic car show is near to me. 😅
They are awesome! This one had a lot of great vendors too. I got a root beer float 😄 And if you take your film camera, you’re bound to get stopped by someone that’ll say “I used to shoot film in the 70s!” Good times :)
@@TheNegative Sounds awesome, now I'm looking even more forward to visit one. 😊
Great work on the angles. Love your work bubba. ❤
Excellent. Thank you for sharing!
The in air kick shot was great
Super cool collection of films! I'd love to see some of the shots when you're done. I'm especially curious about the Double-X and Ferrania P30, and how they do shooting graffiti. I'm trying to find a good low-ISO, fine grain B&W stock for it myself
Thanks - it was great to hear his thoughts!